Producing wonderful glass mosaic ceramic tile art is easy! Let me demonstrate how.
Wheeled glass cutters are essential for creating glass mosaics. I put it to use to cut and condition vitreous glass and stained glass. This can even be used to cut smalti. The wheeled blades make cleaner cuts than tile nippers. The two carbide wheels (or steel, if you buy cheap cutters) are fixed in position. Instead of scoring and breaking, the wheels apply even pressure to the top and bottom edges of the glass, triggering it to fracture together the line of the wheels.
The wheels are replaceable and eventually go dull, although not before several thousand cuts. Each tyre is held in place by a setscrew (usually an Allen screw). As your cuts become noticeably less clean than when the cutters were new, use an Allen wrench tool to loosen the anchoring screws, rotate each wheel about 1/8-inch, and then re-tighten the screws. By altering the location of where each wheel touches the glass, you have, in effect, replaced the rotor blades. It'll take a long time and many cuts to use the complete circumference of the wheels, particularly if they're carbide.
When the rims finally do become that is uninteresting, I would recommend buying a whole new tool. The tires make up the bulk of the tool's cost, which means you won't save much by just buying replacement wheels. With a brand new tool, not only are the tires sharp, but the rubber manage grips are new and clean (the rubber would wear down and becomes dirty) and the spring is secured in-place. Every now and then, the spring breaks free from my cutters. The tool still works with a reduce spring, but there's nothing to keep the handles from spreading too far separate. When that happens, the spring falls off. It can quite annoying to fall the spring, watch it bounce out of attain, and then have to get out of my chair to retrieve it. I tried soldering it permanently in place, but it didn't work because I couldn't get the metal hot enough. Thus, until I get a new tool, the spring constantly falls off. Another reason to obtain a new tool as opposed to just replacement wheels is, if you fall the tool, it's possible to knock the rims out of alignment. Therefore , after several projects when you think the wheels need replacing, I suggest buying a whole new tool.
Whenever your new tool arrives, use an Allen wrench to tighten the anchoring screws as tight as possible. Then, use an engraver, paint, felt-tip marker (or whatever you have that makes a long lasting mark) to make a little mark mark quietly of each wheel where it details the glass when cutting (the two tick scars should be aligned opposite each other). I use an engraving tool to make the tick marks so I may have to worry about paint or ink eventually rubbing off. After a few hundred cuts, loosen the screws, turn each wheel slightly, and then re tighten the anchoring screws. After several of these adjustments, the tick signifies have become full circle suggesting that it's time to replace the tool (or just the wheels, if you prefer).
Don't be surprised if the wheels rotate independently. No make a difference how hard I crank down on those screws, it apparently isn't tight enough because the rims slowly rotate by themselves from the pressure exerted during the cutting action. After several days and many cuts, I spot the beat marks are no lengthier aligned directly opposite each other, which indicates the wheels have rotated slightly. Probably I'm a weakling, but I just can't get the screws tight enough to keep them stationary. Yet , that's okay with me because, if they turn by themselves, then I don't have to personally do it.